Nordkapp - Oslo, 11-stage cycling adventure

The North Cape, Europe's northernmost point

These are the memoirs of my North Cape to Oslo bicycle holiday adventure. On one day in June, I discovered I had two weeks in front of me where my employer didn't need me. With no plans, and being annoyed at everything that didn't go my way. I was especially out for revenge after the latest bicycle race, where my team again speeded off into victory, leaving me on the Dovre mountain all alone.

Route map (conceptual)

So, one afternoon I simply decided: I want to go cycling from the North Cape to Oslo. I can't explain it. I've always found the idea appealing, but until now I thought it was just too much logistics to try it. I knew I would have to go alone - noone to find comfort in but myself. Success would be a theoretical scenario. High probability of getting to know the "hammer" and wating to quit. Guaranteed bucket-loads of pain. Let's do this thing!

In front of me, I had about 2.350 km of roads (1.460 US miles), between the North Cape and Oslo. Unsupported, only me, and 1 small (11L) bag on my bike. Here's how I did it, what I encountered, and some pictures from the trip, either for your entertainment or if you are thinking about doing something similar.

Day 1: Oslo to Honningsvåg by airplane

In advance, I had placed my bike inside the cardboard box that the bike originally came in. I had saved this box for a special occasion, and this was it. This operation involved disassembling the pedals, handlebars, and the front tire. The bike was squeaky clean, and in perfect working condition, of course because I do the repairs myself...

It was a big relief to see the bike box actually being loaded on the plane.

An airshell was also considered, since airshells can be rented at Gardermoen airport, and returned at Alta airport. The uncertainty of this method outweighted the consequences of failure, resulting in choosing the cardboard solution.

So everything mostly went alright at the airport. I guess a shabby-looking guy in a t-shirt, nylon sweatpants, and slippers at the airport, carrying an odd-shaped pink bag, probably stood out a bit. Perhaps that's what made them take an extra look in my bag at security. Sometimes, I wonder what would happen if I answered "It's only for personal use!" when they held up the bag of washing detergent, asking "what's this?". Well, anyways, two hours of flight went by without a hitch.

The view on the in-flight to Alta was nice.

At Alta, I had a couple of hours of waiting, until taking the 062 Boreal buss to Honningsvåg, a 2.5 hrs bus ride. In Honningsvåg I stayed at the Arctic Nordkapp hotel, which is a hotel on the cheap side of the spectrum, with rooms with bathrooms built for midgets. Breakfast had to be bought at the local grocery store. Since no coffee was to be found, I got caffeinated energy drinks to mix into the bidons for the next day.

The bike's cardboard box got binned, the parts assembled. This almost felt like victory already. Trying is a success on it's own. Eerie feelings. Like just before the storm. Am I really doing this? I am so far already! I will not look like a total idiot even if I fail, because I'll be sure to survive at least a couple of days on the road, and have a good story.

Honningsvåg at night. The sun never sets here during summer time.

Day 2: North Cape to Skaidi

The day started on a tourist bus from the Tourist Information building in Honningsvåg, to the North Cape. It's a 40 minute ride, and as the only passenger, I had a long chat with the bus driver. The bus ride cost around 100 kroner, but seriously, it was worth much more than that in just meeting this amazing bus driver.

At the North Cape, I took the mandatory pictures, I looked into the fog, and thought for myself, this is as far north as I'd ever go. It felt special, but I also knew, it would soon be only a memory. I spent a few moments in prayer, tightened the bag straps, checked that I had everything, and started rolling.

The North Cape Monument.

Stage 1 would be 152 km, 5:44 hrs moving, 7 hours elapsed time. All the risk of today was logistical and belonged to the past, so now there were no concerns! No bad thoughts. No hurt. Perhaps this was no big feat in itself, but for me, it was seriously out of the comfort zone. Time for an adventure.

This is one good-looking road!

Things to see: Magerøya (the island with the North Cape) is absolutely stunning. A 6,5 km sub-sea tunnel, reindeer, lack of trees, rolling hills, sami culture. It was something different entirely.

A viewpoint along the E66 on Magerøya.

Rudolph.

That mountain!

Skaidi Hotel was used as accomodation. Nice hotel, nice breakfast, but room AC stuck at max heating, room held 30°C+ without windows that would fully open, and the staff refused to look into or remediate the issue.

Day 3: Skaidi to Sørkjosen

Day 3 started with a small mountain pass, and another two mountain passes were planned. It's easy to get into a good mood when there's so much new things to look at. Legs were fine, but I was still a bit concerned regarding there would be no comfortable exit plans before reaching Bodø.

Sennalandet mountain. Heavenly.

Langfjorden is a seriously long fjord.

Lots of tunnels, perfect road surface. Enormous-sized mosquitos. At Langfjordbotn, I discovered a group of people watching cows in a small paddock. It was actually 'kuskitbingo', a betting contest on which of these two cows would defecate first.

Cow manure bingo at Langfjordbotn.

Stage 2 was 256 km, 10:10 hrs moving, 12:23 hrs elapsed.

Things to see: Sennalandet mountain. Enjoy the peacefulness. Very pleasant places and communities along the road. Meeting many fellow long-bicyclists along the road.

I spent the night at Reisafjord Hotel at Sørkjosen. Comfortable, silent, good standard, and most importantly, bathroom heated tiles to dry cycling clothes.

Day 4: Storslett to Bardufoss

After two days on the bike, it began to hurt a bit more to sit on the saddle. Butt aches are annoying, but not a problem as long as the rest of the body works.

Foggy in Troms county.

This day was characterized by a lot of fog, a very long fjord (Lyngen), and after that, a memorable valley into Nordkjosbotn and Bardufoss. LOL'ing all the way.

I foolishly attempted a KOM on the last climbs before Bardufoss. I knew that I'd have to pay for that the following day, still got that KOM so it was not for nothing.

Stage 3 was 218 km, 8 hrs moving, 10 hrs elapsed.

Things to see: Fog, Lyngen, the valleys. So different, so worthwhile.

Waterfalls near Birtavarre

Nordkjosbotn.

Graffiti. Dangerous neighborhood?

Lyngen Alps in the distance.

The valley into Nordkjosbotn was quite impressive.

Bardufoss Hotel was excellent. Nice staff, and cheap. Good selection of restaurants within 200 metres.

Day 5: Bardufoss to Svolvær

So this was supposed to be the most difficult of the days. A massive distance, after already three long days. I've done 500 km races before, but nothing similar starting alone, with saddle sores, hurting legs, and with baggage. There wasn't much hope for this trip all along, I thought, and if I should fail, I'd fail trying.

The plan was, that if I felt I wasn't up for the whole distance when I reached Bjerkvik, I'd make a go for Narvik instead, and reschedule everything from there.

Bardufoss had prepared a special package of fog & misery for me as a parting gift. Fortunately it lasted only the first hour, and then the landscape opened. I knew time was sparse, so some images would just need to be stored in the soul, and not in the camera.

This stage was simply a blast. It was the best.

Descending into Bjerkvik.

Seaside view from Bogen. Lunch break, eating my lefse.

Tjeldsund bridge.

Lofoten in a nutshell.

Fishing boats near Svolvær.

Stage 4 was 290 km, 11 hrs moving, 13:20 hrs elapsed.

Things to see: Lofoten is worth a visit. So is Bardufoss. Some people say Bardufoss is a hole in the ground, they are wrong, they have probably been here during winter time.

Fast-Hotels Svolvær offered a nice and cozy bed. No receptionist to chat with, all computerized, a bit boring.

Day 6: Svolvær to Moskenes & Bodø ferry

The worry today was, would I reach the ferry? If I didn't, it would be very uncomfortable waiting 6 hours for the next one. This would prove not to be a problem, though, I even caught an earlier ferry.

After yesterday's long day, the physical shape was showing signs of a burn-out: Lack of motivation, slight nausea, painful legs. All the signs were indicating a rest-day was necessary, but I continued since it was a short day. 

Lucky with the weather today.

Borge, Lofoten.

Stortinden

I suppose that's to prevent avalanches on the road.

Reine fishing village.

Stage 5 was 125 km, 5 hours moving time.

Things to see: Lofoten. Bring good company and hiking boots. Or take your bike and suffer with it. Suffering in Lofoten is the best.

Clarion Collection Hotel Bodø provided accomodations for two days. Decent hotel, a bit noisy.

Day 7: Rest day in Bodø

No kilometres today due to heavy rains. Went to the movies, and saw a movie about people caring for cats in Istanbul. Wonderful dinner at the local Subway - It's maybe all too obvious I have no class.

Making new friends in Bodø.

Day 8: Bodø to Mo i Rana

Today's stage featured both Saltstraumen (Salty stream), Saltdalen (Salty valley), and Saltfjellet (Salty mountain). Saltfjellet was particularly nice. I can understand why people choose to live in this area.

There were some fierce headwinds, and Saltfjellet greeted me on the south side with some extra chilly rains.

Saltstraumen, tidal maelstrom outside Bodø.

A tricky GPS trap, fv552 on the east side of Misværfjorden, cost me quite a bit of time. Strava (Microsoft maps?) claimed it was a road, but it is only reminiscent of something that used to be a stretch of road.

This was no road for 25mm bike tires.

 

I chose the scenic route over Ljøsnehammartoppen into Saltdalen.

 

A river flowing down the north side of Saltfjellet.

Train tracks over Saltfjellet.

Windy and rainy south of Saltfjellet.

Stage 6 was 250 km, 10 hrs moving time.

Things to see: Saltfjellet, polar circle centre. Have a lunch break in the open. People here have time to stop and talk.

I slept at Babette's Hostel, which seemed pretty alright. Family-run business. They had carpeted floors, but allowed my dirty bike indoors nonetheless. Thank you.

Day 9: Mo i Rana to Namsskogan

I didn't expect the Korgen Mountain to be this steep, or so tall. Headwinds and rain showers made this a not terribly comfortable stage, however, I could laugh through the beautiful landscape all day.

It was a bit scary to observe that my bicycle pump broke during this stage while I tried forcing 120 PSI into the tires, resulting in loss of air pressure, but not at a critical level. It probably slowed me down a bit, but more importantly, if I had got a flat tire I would have an interesting challenge on my hands. I hadn't considered the possibility, but taking a bus or taxi to the first city would have been the appropriate action if the situation went critical.

A view from Korgen.

A river, still in Nordland.

Nordland is showing it's good side today.

Smalvatnet.

  
Stage 7 was 211 km. 8:30 hrs moving time, 10 hours elapsed.

Things to see: Korgen. Nord-Trøndelag county is by far the best part of Norway. I grew up here, and honestly, there's no place like home. The people are friendlier, the trees greener, the water is cleaner, and even the birds hit their pitches perfectly.

I'd recommend staying at Nams-Inn. Very charming.

Day 10: Namsskogan to Namsos

Reaching Namsos was my Priority #1 on this adventure - and it was reached. I even got accompanied by my friend Kris Even on the last part, and today's stage was completed with the mind-blowingly steep climb up the nicest hill in Namsos: Klompen.

Fiskumfoss hydroelectric power station.

Petrified. Not dangerous anymore.

Namsen river.

My friend Kris Even providing moral support into Namsos.

The view over Namsos from Klompen. Job well done.

Stage 8 was 126 km. 5 hours moving time, or 6 hours elapsed.

Things to see: Namsen river. Hydroelectric power plants with museums.

Day 11: Rest day in Namsos

I spent this day doing activities with my girlfriend's family. My girlfriend keeps me on the narrow path, and I was very glad to spend some time together with her.

Day 12: Namsos - Trondheim

It's hard to believe, but only 30 km from where I grew up on the country-side, I found some awesome roads I've never seen before, which took me to Rørvik. From Rørvik, there's a ferry to Trondheim.

Trondheim would have been my favorite city in Norway, if it weren't for the Trønders who party hard into the early hours, not caring if there's a ex-patriate living in a nearby hotel trying to sleep.

Grazing sheep. Follafoss.

Some of Fosen's rich plant life.

Fosen has a surprisingly varied landscape.

Trondheim, after a long day of cycling.

Stage 9 was 183 km. 7 hours of cycling, 9:30 elapsed time.

Things to see: Valleys, domestic animals, fjord views.

I stayed at P-Hotels Trondheim at Brattøra. Nice hotel, but free tip: Don't stay here a friday night. The neighboring pub has the awesomest of bass equipment.

Day 13: Trondheim - Koppang

The road from Trondheim to Oslo is well-known to me. Instead of choosing the good old E6, I decided to ride the eastern valley instead. The first half of this day was easy, the second half involved some serious fighting. Willpower vs. head-wind.

Wheat fields outside Trondheim.

Tunndalen, north of Tynset. A different look & feel of the landscape.

Poor maintenance.

The famous troll-sized kicksled in Tynset.

Storsjøen of the eastern valley. So silent.

Stage 10 was 271 km. 10:45 hours of moving time, and 13:30 total.

The last hotel accommodation of the trip was Stor-Elvdal Hotel. I reached the hotel 15 minutes before the reception's closing time. Wonderful breakfast. Wonderful hotel staff. It felt great that this trip was coming to and end.

Day 14: Koppang - Oslo

For the last time, and with success within reach, I packed my stuff, and pedalled out on the last stage. I was promised a small rain shower early in the day, but was blessed with a lot more than that. It poured down like crazy for at least an hour. Since the rain caused quite a bit of discomfort, I decided after a while to ride the rather trafficked Rv3 south. Somewhat risky, but necessary to conserve strength.

The moose outside Stor-Elvdal Hotel.

Glomma river. The longest river in Norway.

One of many pretty sights in Nord-Odal. A lot of forest on today's route.

Me, on the flat stretches of Leirsund, Lillestrøm. I know these roads!

Riding into Oslo, at sundown, a worthy end of a 2.350 km long adventure.

Stage 11 was 265 km. 10 hours of moving time, and nearly 12 hours elapsed.

End?

Some journeys never stop, like the journey through life and into the next... Other journeys are temporary, they stop when you're out of water, food, or energy. This trip - however - will end when I'm out of road.

When the autumn comes, I fully intend to complete the way down to Norway's southernmost point, Lindesnes. There's something charming about completing the things you start. It's like making your bed in the morning: Things that you do will inspire new things.

Experiences

A few recommendations to others comes to mind when planning longer cycling adventures:

• The destination is not the goal. The journey is. If you try cycling far, don't eagerly await the finish line, otherwise it will be a very long day. Being present is far more important.
• Washing and drying clothes in hotels are not always easy. There are various techniques available:
  - Bathroom heating cables are most effective for drying clothes
  - Heating panels work too
  - Bib shorts usually dry well just hanging in a warm room
  - If everything fails, wrap the clothes in dry towels in the morning, and wring out the moisture.
• Bikes may not like rain very well. Mud stuck in the drivetrain may make the gearing imprecise. Using high-pressure washers with degreasers occasionally is recommended, but bring oil!
• Food. I primarily ate according to the following pattern:
  - Solid breakfast with lots of carbs
  - Two bananas in the pocket for an early lunch
  - Early lunch break with sandwich, buns or similar at a gas station
  - A pack of lefse ("lefsegodt", stashes easily into jersey pocket) when hungry again. Contains a lot of sugars, so it needs to be divided in two with atleast 1 hour inbetween. This also served as emergency food for where there was no gas stations.
  - After that, anything that will go down.
• Listen to your body. Feeling uninspired, powerless and burnt out? Take a rest day.
• There are so many things that can go wrong. Be humble. Be careful. If you're so inclined, trust in some higher power to reach the goal you are searching for. If you find something different than what you were reaching for, it might be what you needed.

Cost

Two weeks of cycling cost me a total of 20 553 NOK (approx. 2 600 USD), including airfare, bus tickets, hotels, food, ferry crossings, movie tickets, and replacement parts:

Hotels	10 589 NOK
Food	5 234 NOK
Transportation	3 273 NOK
Other	1 457 NOK

Hotels were booked with only B&B through booking.com (except for Nams-Inn), and a detailed spreadsheet was used to plan all stages, expenses, and any cancellation policies that applied. Cancellation policies were important to keep track of, to accommodate for any changes in the planned schedule.

Packing list

This is what I brought with me:

• Bicycle
• Canyon Ultimate CF SLX 2016 road bike
• Garmin Edge 1000 GPS
• Apidura Top tube bag for camera and cell phone
• Apidura saddle pack (Compact version, 11L)
• USB battery 3000 mAh (mounted below Garmin unit with freezer tape)
• Code Lock
• Bottles, 2x 1L
• Front and rear mini lights (for tunnels) - important!!
• Cycling clothes
• Cycling glasses 
• Helmet
• Cycling shoes
• Short-finger gloves
• Bib shorts
• Thin jersey
• Thin jacket (compressible)
• Buff (doubles as a cap on the cold days)
• Long sleeves
• MISSING: Long legs (I missed them in Troms, the fog was very cold)
• Civilian clothes
• Boxer shorts, socks (1x is enough)
• Nylon jogging pants (compressible)
• Thin "nice-hotel-presentable" t-shirt 
• Slippers
• Personal hygiene
• Tooth paste
• Eye wash / tear replacement if uncomfortably dry (Viscotears)
• Morgan Blue travel pack: Cleaning tissue, Muscle relax, oil for the bike
• Allergy meds & painkillers (not used)
• Toothbrush
• Gum
• Paper (for any emergency toilet breaks)
• Chamois creme (petroleum jelly, supermarket version will do, but the Morgan Blue one is slightly better)
• Sun screen (factor 15 for northern Norway)
• Tools
• Multi-tool
• Small umbrako pedal wrench (8mm for my bike, can vary)
• Tire lever
• Chain hot-link
• Pump
• Small plastic bags
• Strips - for emergency bike repairs
• Freezer tape (for mounting battery pack, tears off easily) 
• USB charger for 2x ports, w/1x microusb long cable, 1x 10cm cable, 1x camera cable
• Food
• High5 Zero Electrolyte Drink tablets (a full tube)
• 5x Fresbin liquid meal replacement for the first days
• Emergency food: 1 high5 bar.
• Wallet w/VISA debit card, insurance, drivers license/ID (always in shirt pocket)
• Mastercard credit card (VISA in shirt pocket, MC in the Apidura, just in case...)
• Emergency cash 2000 NOK (didn't use)
• Extra battery for the power meter
• Extra inner tubes (x2)
• Washing detergent for ~6 days
• Camera (I used an Olympus Tough TG-4)
• Extra camera battery (didn't use it during the trip)

All daily stages were planned in detail using the Strava Route Builder, and transferred to my GPS.

Stage (Strava)	From	To	Distance (km)	Elevation (m)	Moving time	Avg. power (W)	Total work (J)	Calories (kCal)
1	Nordkapp	Skaidi	151	1 561	05:44:47	165	2 816	3 140
2	Skaidi	Sørkjosen	255	2 711	10:10:49	147	4 800	5 352
3	Sørkjosen	Bardufoss	217	1 749	08:06:06	136	3 415	3 807
4	Bardufoss	Svolvær	290	2 760	11:06:55	150	5 245	5 849
5	Svolvær	Bodø	125	1 149	05:05:45	139	2 107	2 349
6	Bodø	Mo i Rana	250	2 602	09:53:31	167	5 275	5 881
7	Mo i Rana	Namsskogan	211	2 157	08:38:16	155	4 204	4 688
8	Namsskogan	Namsos	125	833	04:42:46	151	2 227	2 484
9	Namsos	Trondheim	182	1 808	07:13:48	147	3 145	3 507
10	Trondheim	Koppang	270	2 126	10:46:36	148	5 133	5 723
11	Koppang	Oslo	265	1 531	09:42:36	143	4 463	4 976
TOTAL			2 347	20 987	91:11:55	150	42 830	47 756

Thanks to ACE for editing help & thanks to Strava followers for great support!!